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Informational

How to Safely Install a Ceiling Fan

How to Safely Install a Ceiling Fan

by admin · Mar 29, 2024

Installing a new ceiling fan is a cheap way to save on energy costs all year without compromising on comfort. In the summer, ceiling fans cool down the house by creating a breeze. In the winter, they help circulate the heated air to warm the whole room evenly. 

Putting in a ceiling fan is a win-win for your comfort levels and your budget – and it’s a pretty simple DIY project for homeowners. Plan on giving yourself a few hours (depending on the type of fan and your experience level with lighting DIYs), and grab a friend that can help you hold things in place while you work.

If you’re buying a ceiling fan new, it should come with thorough installation instructions. We always recommend following those instructions exactly to be sure that your fan is installed safely and properly. If you’re installing a secondhand fan, you may be able to find the installation guide online by searching with the model number on the fan. Either way, we’ll walk you through the basic steps here so that you can prepare. 

1. Preparation

Before you break out your tool belt, make sure you have a good plan in place. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of a project and realizing you don’t have everything you need to complete the task.

Tool Checklist

Before you take on a ceiling fan installation project, make sure you have all the tools you need so you don’t have to rush off to your local hardware store for a last-minute purchase. To install a ceiling fan you’ll need to have a:

  • Voltage Tester
  • Ladder
  • Measuring Tape
  • Screwdriver
  • Ceiling Fan-Rated Junction Box
  • Fan Brace
  • Wire-Cutter/Stripper
  • Light Bulbs
  • Globes/Shades if they aren’t included
  • An extra-long downrod if you’re installing on a sloped ceiling
  • Ceiling Fan and Kit

Choosing the Right Fan Size

Measure the room you’re working in before you start. Not all fans are created equal, so pick one that will fit. Use the following guidelines to help. 

  • For rooms smaller than 75 square feet (like bathrooms), pick a fan with blade spans of less than 36 inches.
  • Blade spans between 36 and 42 inches are ideal for rooms up to 144 square feet. 
  • A 44-inch span is perfect for rooms up to 225 square feet, like a dining room.
  • For rooms that are 225 square feet or larger (a large living room, for example), you’ll need a fan with a 50 to 54-inch blade span.
  • The more space between the ceiling and the fan, the better! The ideal ceiling fan height is 8-9 feet above the ground. 
  • If your ceiling is less than 8 feet, you’ll most likely need to install a flush-mount fan (no downrod).
  • High pitched ceilings typically require you to buy an extra-long downrod (so that the blades won’t hit the sloped ceiling), so check your ceiling height and angle before choosing your downrod.

Pro Tip: Once your fan is installed, the tips of the blades should be at least 30 inches from the walls, and the bottom edges of the blades should be at least 7 feet above the floor. 

Other Important Tips

  • Ceiling fans are heavy! They need to be anchored properly to an electric ceiling box designed to hold the weight of the fan. Inspect the electrical box to ensure it’s fan-rated. There should be an inscription on the box to indicate this. If it’s not, you’ll also need to purchase a fan box before you get started.
  • Check to make sure the light switch you’re using is wired appropriately for the fan. If it isn’t, you may need to call a professional to get the job done.
  • Check the ceiling joists for any wiring or plumbing pipes that may be in the way.
  • If you’re adding a new fan where one didn’t exist, check local building codes to determine if you need a permit.
  • Always check your installation guide for any additional requirements that are specific to your fan. For some expert help choosing the perfect fan for your space, give us a visit or a call and we’d be happy to help.

2. Safety

Now that you’re ready to begin, head out to your circuit breaker and turn the power off for the room where you’ll be installing your fan. Also, make sure all of the wall switches in the room are safely in the “off” position. Do not rely on a wall switch alone to protect you from electrical shock! Always use a voltage tester to be sure the power is off before handling wires.

Pro Tip: Place some electrical tape over the switches you’ve turned off on the circuit breaker. This will prevent anyone from switching it back on while you’re working.

3. Remove Your Old Fixture

Let’s get started! First, you’ll need to take down the existing fixture. Most fixtures have easy-to-find attachment points, like screws or twist-off caps. Remove accessories like light bulbs, shades to get down to the base of your fixture, then unscrew the base from the ceiling.

If you’re removing an existing ceiling fan, remove the light bulbs and globes first. Then, take down the light kit (if needed – some fans have them, some don’t). Unscrew and remove the fan blades next. At this point, you may need to enlist a helper as the full weight of the fan base and motor can be heavy. Pull off the canopy (metal cover at the base of the fan). The last step is to remove the mounting bracket with a screwdriver!

Once you have the base of your fixture dropped away from the ceiling, unscrew the wire nuts connecting it to the electrical box. Be sure to test the wires with your voltage tester first!

4. Install a Fan Box

Before you start, check your existing electrical box. If it isn’t rated to support the weight of your fan, you’ll need to install a new one. To see if your existing box is rated to hold a fan, just take a look at the label! If you can’t find a label, err on the side of caution and get a new one. 

You’ll have to do a little bit of homework here to figure out what will work best for your project. Fan boxes are easiest to install if you have open access, like in the attic or an unfinished ceiling. If you won’t have easy access you may need to widen your drywall hole a little, but you can usually find a brace that will slip through the existing hole. 

Take a look at your rafters to determine the best way to install your fan box. Fan boxes can be attached directly to the rafter with a side bracket. If your new fan won’t be right next to a rafter, look for a brace that will span the space between two rafters. These braces can be a little trickier to install through a small hole in the ceiling, but they’ll give you a lot more breathing room when it comes to getting your fan box in the right place. 

5. Install the Mounting Bracket

To secure the mounting bracket to the fan box, start by threading the wires through the mounting bracket. If the fan has a slide-on bracket, leave the bolts on the junction box, slide the bracket over the mounting hardware, and tighten the screws. For fans without a slide-on bracket, place the bracket over the mounting bolts that poke through the bracket. Then, secure it using the provided nuts. If your fan is a flush mount, pull the wiring through the canopy (the part that covers the wiring/mount bracket) and skip to step 7.

6. Install the Downrod

To set the downrod, you’ll want to find a flat work surface. Slip the canopy onto the downrod and pull the primary wires through the hollow downrod. Then, connect the downrod to the fan base. With the downrod and base assembled, attach the other end of the downrod to the mounting bracket. 

7. Wire the Fan

Next, it’s time to wire! Hang the downrod – or canopy, if you’re installing a flush mount fan – on the hook on the mounting bracket. If there isn’t a good place to hang it, phone a friend to hold the fan up for you to free up your hands while you connect the wires. 

Before you start, check to make sure all your wiring (and the wire nuts) will fit in the ceiling. Use your wire cutters to trim down any wires that won’t. This will also keep them from vibrating against the canopy when the fan is on. Use wire strippers to expose the copper of the wires on the new ends. 

Connect the corresponding wires using the provided wire nuts. Your installation guide will have a diagram to follow, but, generally speaking, the fan’s green wire connects to the ground wire, the fan’s black motor wire connects to the black supply wire, and the fan’s white wire connects to the white (or neutral) supply wire. 

Double-check your work against the diagram, then gently push the wires into the junction box. Lift the fan into position, then clip it to the mounting bracket and secure the screws.

Pro Tip: Some fans come with additional wires for extra features, like having a separate switch for the light and fan. If your switches or wires don’t match the diagram, you might need to check in with an electrician or a lighting specialist at our showroom to help you get things set up correctly.

8. Blades and Bulbs

Now it’s time to install the fan blades. Every fan is a little bit different – but most fans will have an arm or bracket that you’ll need to attach to the blade and then to the base using a screwdriver. Some fans have quick-install blades that speed up the process using keyhole slots that slip over the fan’s mounting screws and lock into place with a little tug. 

Some fans have reversible blades – so make sure you’re checking each time that you have the correct side pointed down!

By now, you should be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel – so let’s install the bulbs! For fans with a light kit, refer to your guide to ensure everything goes in place correctly. Generally, you’ll just need to install the shades, globes, or light cover. If your fan did not come with bulbs, make sure the bulbs you install have the correct base type and wattage 

If your fan came with a remote, don’t forget to install the remote control holder!

9. Lights… Fan… Action!

Last, but not least, it’s time to test out your new ceiling fan! Go back to your circuit breaker and turn the power back on. Try switching your fan and lights on and off using the light switch or remote control. Test all of the speed settings to make sure your fan is secured properly and doesn’t wobble or rattle.

Most of the time, installing a ceiling fan is a pretty straightforward DIY project. Occasionally, an odd issue can crop up due to things like old wiring. If you run into any trouble, be sure to give us a call right away, or call an electrician that can help you troubleshoot the issue.

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Congratulations DIY master! Now that you’ve successfully installed your new ceiling fan, get ready for a fresh breeze to blow your way–and some savings too. With all that extra cash blowing around, come visit us and we’ll help get you started on your next project. 

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DISCLAIMER: Be sure to follow all the manufacturer’s installation instructions and take all recommended safety precautions. Check before installing to see if you need a permit and be sure all building and electrical codes are observed. If you have any questions or are unsure about installing the fan yourself, contact a licensed electrician or Lit Living for more help.

Filed Under: 2023, Ceiling Fans, Ceiling Lights, How to, Informational, Wellness & Safety

A Guide to the Basic Types of Light and How to Use Them In Your Home

A Guide to the Basic Types of Light and How to Use Them In Your Home

by admin · Feb 16, 2024

Light is all around us, controls what we do and how our body runs. Yet, most people haven’t given much thought to the kinds of light that surround them. In this article, we’ll cover the basics of both as we explain how to use light to your advantage.

Types of Light in Interior Design

When we talk about interior design, there are a lot of different words that get tossed around about lighting. It can get a little confusing, but the good news is, if you can get down these main types of light you’ll be 90% good to go! 

  • General/Ambient: This is the main source of light for a space. It fills the room with bright, balanced, even light. This usually comes from an overhead fixture centered in the room or an array of recessed lights.
  • Task: Task lighting is usually bright and used in combination with ambient light. It’s extra light that is strategically placed to add focused light to a workspace, like a kitchen counter or writing desk.
  • Accent: Accent light refers to light that is more about design than function. Spotlights, track lights, and strip LEDs can fall into this category. They often shine on artwork or architectural features like high ceilings or feature fireplaces. Although accent light does fill a function, the main value is decorative.
  • Mood: Mood lighting is generally soft, dim light. It encourages a calm or romantic atmosphere. Most often this is done with lamps, candles, or lights on dimmer switches.

When designing a lighting plan for your home, it’s important to create “layers” of light by including several types of lighting in each space. To see this in action, here’s a breakdown of the types of light found in this bedroom:

  • General/Ambient: Array of recessed lights along the ceiling
  • Task: Reading lamps on either side of the bed
  • Accent: LED light strip tucked around the edges of a coved ceiling, recessed lights shining on wall panel details, decorative sconces on wall centered around the dresser
  • Mood: Soft lights under closet doors, dimmer switches on several fixtures

This room is a great example of the way layered light adds to the design of a space without being overwhelming. Remember, you won’t usually be using all of these lights at the same time – but having options lets you customize the space for, however, you need to use it at the moment.

Other Types of Light

For most of your home projects, understanding the main types of lighting should be sufficient, but there are a few other lighting terms you may hear. Here are a few of the most popular terms: 

Diffused Light

Properties: Gentle, encourages relaxation

Best locations: Bedrooms, tub, Living Room, Dining Room

Diffused light is a natural companion to warm light. This term refers to light that is scattered and doesn’t cast a hard shadow. You can create this effect through reflected or covered lighting. We’ll focus on the latter here and touch more on reflected light in the next section.

Breaking up light makes it less harsh and more relaxed, cozy. Popular design elements are boho wicker chandeliers, modern plastic-covered lights, or paper lanterns. Both allow for plenty of light but filter the harshness of the bulb.

The opposite of diffused light is hard light. This light shines directly from the source and casts a hard shadow. This light is often found in workspaces like the kitchen or office. 

Reflected Light

Properties: Gentle, amplifies space

Best locations: Kitchen, Living Rooms, Bedrooms

This term has more to do with how light reacts in a design after it hits a surface in your home than with the source of the light. There are a few things that will affect how the light hits, and bounces off, the objects in your home. 

Color

Light colors reflect light, and dark colors absorb light. You can make a room feel big and spacious with just a coat of light-colored paint on the walls and ceiling. If you go dark on your walls, you’ll often need to add additional light sources to keep your room from feeling small.

Finish

Smooth, glossy finishes like wood floors or metallic furniture will reflect light and bounce it back out into the room. Interiors with lots of glossy surfaces can get away with fewer light sources. If your room feels a little too bright – try adding in some softer, textured surfaces like a fabric sofa, a rug, pillows and blankets, or textured wall art. 

Backlight

Properties: Highlights design, provides contrast, decreases eye strain

Best locations: Closets, Bookshelves, Cove ceilings, Wall panels, Kitchen cabinets, TVs and Computer Screens

Backlighting is the practice of lighting an object from behind. With a soft light source behind it, your bed, tv, art, or mirror will look like it’s glowing. In interior design, backlighting can also refer to the practice of lighting a wall, floor, or other surfaces with soft light (as seen above) to give the illusion of continuous, shadow-free illumination. 

As A Design Element

The key to successful backlighting is to tuck the light sources out of view and in reflective areas. In interior design, backlighting is usually found tucked into the recesses of architectural details like cove ceilings or wall panels, or around cabinets, bookshelves, and closets.

Behind Screens

Another common use for backlighting has a little less to do with design and more to do with function. Running a strip of LED lights along the back of a TV screen or computer monitor creates a soft glow around the edges of the screen, which reduces the strain on your eyes. Light used in this context is also often called bias lighting.

Light Temperature

The temperature of light refers to its energy and wavelength. Higher energy light can appear blue and is called cool. Lower energy light appears yellow or red and is called warm. The temperature of the bulbs you put in your light fixtures can actually impact how you feel while you’re in the space, and can even affect your sleeping patterns.  

Traditional incandescent bulbs only gave off warm light, so there was little variety in the light temperature of interior light fixtures. But LED technology has created light bulbs that can give off any wavelength from cool to warm, and some bulbs can change color with the click of a button on a remote. 

Homeowners now have a much wider range of color temperatures to choose from – so it’s important to understand how these light temperatures affect you when you’re lighting your home.

Cool Light

Properties: Alertness, attention, working brain

Best Locations: Office, Kitchen, Vanity, Bathroom Mirror

Blue light is receiving a lot of negative attention these days, but it’s not all bad. Blue light is a very important part of both our daily cycle and our workday.

The biggest source of blue light is the sun. The blue spectrum of light activates our attentive brain, which helps to keep us alert.

Since blue light is excellent for concentration, it is perfect for work areas. The kitchen, home offices, homework areas, and around mirrors are perfect locations. It’s often used for general lighting and task lighting. Cool lights allow the whole family to focus up and get great work done. 

Because cool light keeps your brain alert, it’s best to turn off all blue light sources 2 hours before bed. That includes your phone screens and TVs – if you’re not getting great sleep at night, try changing your relationship with blue light. It can make a big difference! 

Warm Light

Properties: Relaxation, sleep, resting brain

Best Locations: Bedrooms, Living Room, Dining Room, Bathtub

This light has a longer wavelength, travels more slowly, and outputs less energy.  Warm light signals our brains to relax and encourages rest and sleep. 

Fire, such as from a candle or fireplace, is a natural source of red light. Sitting around a fire at night to feel cozy or romantic isn’t an arbitrary human idea – it’s biology!

Warm light sources are perfect for bedrooms, tub areas, living rooms, or dining areas. Ending your day in warm light will help your body to relax and get ready for excellent, restorative sleep.

Natural/Neutral Light

Properties: In between warm and cool light, bright but not harsh

Best locations: Substitute for cool light for sensitive eyes

There is a third bulb temperature marketed today. Natural or neutral bulbs give off light in between cool and warm. These bulbs may be particularly useful for those with light sensitivity problems. These bulbs are bright enough to fill ambient lighting needs to work in without feeling harsh. 

Ask the Pros

It can feel intimidating to design the light of your home. The lighting pros at LitLiving are available to help you combine your aesthetic, room needs, and budget as they connect you with the best lighting showrooms around.

 

 

Filed Under: 2022, Informational

Chandeliers vs. Pendant Lights: What’s the Difference?

Chandeliers vs. Pendant Lights: What’s the Difference?

by admin · Feb 9, 2024

Chandeliers and pendant lights both make a statement in any space. Because they’re very similar, they are often confused for one another. While they both hang down from the ceiling, there are a few key differences you need to know that can help you choose what’s best for your home.

 

Chandelier

A chandelier has a central body with multiple lighted branching arms. It usually hangs suspended from a chain.

 

Pendant Light

 

A pendant light has a cord or chain with one light attached. Sometimes pendant lights have multiple lights, but if they do, they’re usually surrounded by a structure 

like the one pictured above.

 

Similarities and Differences

Style

The biggest difference between a chandelier and a pendant light is how it looks. Chandeliers are more intricate and ornate. They make a big statement and add elegance to a room. Chandeliers will be the center of attention. Pendant lights come in a wide variety of shapes and styles. When compared to a chandelier, pendants are usually smaller and have a cleaner, more minimal feel.

Use

Chandeliers and Pendants can both be used in any room in the house! Chandeliers are usually used to provide ambient light (illuminates a space evenly) in large spaces, but their ornate designs can create shadows. Because there are many lights on one chandelier, you may only need one to illuminate a whole room. Pendant lights are better for direct lighting (over a kitchen table, for example). Since there’s usually only one bulb per fixture, smaller pendant lights are often used in groups, like a set of 3 over a kitchen island.

Cost

While there are exceptions, chandeliers tend to be much more expensive than pendant lights. Chandeliers also often require professional installation due to their size and weight, which may add extra to your total bill. On the flip side, a handy homeowner can sometimes hang a pendant light by themself! If you’re comparison shopping, don’t forget to consider the number of fixtures you’ll need when calculating cost.

Maintenance

When choosing between these two statement fixtures, be sure to consider maintenance. Since pendant lights are simpler, they are usually easier to clean and have simpler lightbulb changes. On the other hand, chandeliers can be more challenging to maintain because of their delicate design. If you’re looking for easier maintenance, a pendant light is your best bet.

 

Pros and Cons

Chandeliers and pendant lights are both great options, but to help you make up your mind, we rounded up all of the details above here as some quick-reference pros and cons.

No matter which you choose, chandeliers and pendant lights will both make a statement and show off your style! If you’re still not sure which is right for you, give our experts at All-Phasea call for personalized advice!

 

Filed Under: 2022, Informational

How Many Blades Does Your Ceiling Fan Really Need?

How Many Blades Does Your Ceiling Fan Really Need?

by admin · Jan 26, 2024

Ceiling fans are great at providing comfort year-round. A good ceiling fan will help you save on energy costs by circulating the air in your home. In the summer they create a draft, making the room feel cooler. In cold weather, you can switch the fan’s direction to circulate warm air from central heating around the room. 

Ceiling fans are so ubiquitous that for many people it’s hard to imagine life without one! So what happens when your fan breaks, and it’s time to get a new one? 

If you’ve shopped for ceiling fans recently, you know that there are a lot of options. From the ultra-modern models with a single fan blade, to the “windmill” design fans with so many blades that there’s hardly any space between them – many homeowners on the hunt start to ask: 

How many blades does my ceiling fan really need? 

Does the blade count actually change anything, or is it just for aesthetics? 

In short, the answer is “yes to both.” The blade count on a ceiling fan is largely viewed as a style issue, but it does impact the way the fan works. Apart from the obvious design differences, the number of blades on a fan will also affect its noise level and energy consumption. 

Noise Level

The fewer the blades, the faster a fan needs to spin to move the same amount of air. Lots of spinning means lots of moving parts, which usually translates to more noise. Take large industrial fans, for example – they typically have two or three blades and are pretty loud. 

On the other end of the spectrum, fans with higher blade counts can move a lot of air spinning at a slower rate. Less motion means less noise – windmill-style fans with eight to ten blades are virtually silent. 

There isn’t an exact cutoff between noisy versus quiet fans, but a good middle range is around five. If you want a quieter fan, one with five or more blades will likely be your best choice. 

Energy Efficiency

Another thing to consider when choosing a fan is how much it will cost to run. Fans with more blades create more drag, requiring more energy to operate. This is one reason why large, always-on fans (like you’d see in a commercial space) often only have three blades. They may be a bit noisier, but they save on energy costs.

While its blade count does impact the energy efficiency of a fan, it’s definitely not the only factor involved. The efficiency of fans can also be affected by the length and angle of the blades and by the type of motor it uses. It’s best to check the energy rating of your fan when possible. 

Style and Aesthetics

Aside from energy efficiency and noise level, the main difference between fans with high and low blade counts is really just style and aesthetics. “Windmill” styles with eight to twelve blades can feel rustic, whereas fans with two to three blades usually feel minimalist and industrial. 

How do I know what the right number is for me?

The short answer to this question is – it really doesn’t matter very much for most people. It doesn’t matter whether noise levels, energy efficiency, or aesthetics are your top priority; it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find a fan that will meet your needs in all three categories. 

Most often, it’s safe to shop by your style preferences first, then find a fan that meets your noise and efficiency needs from that selection. A modern, high-quality ceiling fan will be designed to work well regardless of the blade count.

If you’re looking for a quality fan that will keep you cool for years to come, stop by our showroom or give us a call. Our lighting experts are ready and waiting to help you find exactly what you need!

Filed Under: 2022, Ceiling Fans, Informational

A Beginner’s Guide to Light Bulbs

A Beginner’s Guide to Light Bulbs

by admin · Jan 19, 2024

Everything You Need to Know to Choose the Right Light Bulb for Your Home

Hakinmhan/Shutterstock.com

Imagine this: you look up, and notice that your ceiling light has a burnt-out bulb. You check the closet and realize you’re out of replacements. So you go to the store and realize there’s an entire aisle full of light bulbs in different boxes with different names and shapes and ratings. This was supposed to be a simple trip, but now you have to start googling. Sound familiar?

It looks like a lot of technical jargon, and it kind of is, but don’t worry. We’ve put together the things you actually need to know, so that you can skip past the shopping nightmare and get right to the bulb you need.

Light Bulb Types

Incandescent 

Incandescent bulbs are the original light bulb. They give off light by sending electricity through a thin filament, which glows when it heats up. They emit a warm yellow light and are dimmable.  These bulbs are easy to find and are typically the least expensive option.  Incandescent bulbs last for around a year, which is longer than halogen bulbs, but shorter than CFL and LED bulbs. 

Incandescent bulbs are the least energy-efficient bulb on our list, which has landed them on the blacklist of environmentalist legislation in several countries over the last 15 years, including China and the United States.

Halogen  

This bulb has the shortest lifespan of the four. They emit a light very similar to incandescent bulbs, and they cost a little bit more because they are much more efficient. They do have a drawback- they heat up very quickly, so they need to be kept away from combustible materials. Use gloves when you handle these bulbs, as the oil from your hands can make them explode when they get hot. 

CFL 

Short for Compact Fluorescent Lamp, CFLs are energy-saving bulbs that come in a wide range of colors.  They last longer than incandescent bulbs and are less expensive than LED lights, so they can be a good choice for large rooms. It’s important to note that they usually take time to warm up and get to full brightness, and they produce a lot of heat.  They contain mercury, so handle and dispose of them with care.

LED  

LED bulbs are the latest technology in the light bulb industry. Despite being the most expensive option of the four, they’re wildly popular for a number of reasons. They can last up to 50,000 hours, which means they hardly ever need to be replaced. To put that in perspective, if you left an LED bulb on for 12 hours a day, every day of the week, it would last for 11 years! They also produce so little heat they are cool to the touch even after hours of running. This makes them a very safe option when it comes to lighting your home. 

LED bulbs are the holy grail of customizable lighting. They are dimmable, come in a wide variety of colors (some can even change hues), and come in outdoor-rated varieties. Many use smart technology, so they can be linked to your Google Home or Alexa. LED bulbs are a great option anywhere in your home, but we especially recommend them for hard-to-reach fixtures that you don’t want to change very often.

Light Bulb Glossary Terms

Viktoria Kurpas/Shutterstock.com

Base: The portion of the light bulb that connects the bulb itself to the light fixture is called the base. Light bulb bases come in several sizes, so be sure to check your old bulb. Most household light bulbs have a base with a letter-number combination such as E12. The letter represents the base shape (in this case, Edison), and the number represents the width of the base, usually in millimeters. 

Watts: This is a measurement of power, representing the energy transfer of the bulb. A 60 watt lightbulb “consumes” 60 joules of energy per second. Energy efficient light bulbs can produce the same amount of light using fewer watts, so they cost less money to run.

Lumens: This is a measurement of light, representing how much light is being emitted per second. Light bulbs with high lumen ratings give off more light. 

CRI: This acronym stands for “Color Rendering Index.” Colors appear differently under different lighting conditions, so the CRI score tells you how well a light bulb will show you the true colors of objects. Bulbs are rated from 0-100, with 0 meaning all colors will appear the same and 100 meaning that all colors will be true. A bulb with a CRI above 80 is good, and 90 is great. Incandescent and halogen bulbs have a CRI of 100. This rating has nothing to do with light temperature.

Color Temperature: This is a measurement of light color from cool to warm, measured in Kelvin (K). Bulbs around 2000 K will give off a warm red light. Around 5000 K, bulbs give off light that mimics mid-day sunlight. Over 6000 K bulbs give off a cool blue light. Warm light is relaxing, so it’s great in bedrooms and living rooms. Cool light is energizing, so it’s perfect for kitchens and offices.

Energy Star Rating: This rating label was developed by the EPA, and is given to bulbs that “contribute significant energy savings.” If your bulb has the Energy Star logo on its packaging, it means that it will be more efficient in its energy consumption, which saves you money in the long run.

If you’re stuck in the store unsure what to buy, or if you’ve lost track of your browser tabs and you still don’t know if the bulb in your cart is right, we’ve got you covered. Give our experts a call or stop by our showroom and we’ll be happy to walk you through getting the perfect bulb.

Filed Under: 2021, Informational

Lumens vs Watts: What’s the Difference?

Lumens vs Watts: What’s the Difference?

by admin · Jan 12, 2024

Light bulbs have been lighting up our world for over a hundred years, but do we really understand how they work? When you go to the store to buy a replacement bulb, the box labels are filled with numbers and industry terms that can leave you wondering how to know which bulb you actually need.

Fortunately, understanding the difference between lumens and watts is fairly straightforward. Take a quick minute to read this quick summary, and you’ll be ready to hit the stores to find exactly what you need.

Lumens

Lumens measure the amount of light a bulb emits. The technical definition is “the unit of luminous flux, equal to the luminous flux emitted in a unit solid angle by a point source of one candle intensity.” In less scientific terms, the higher the lumen rating, the brighter the bulb. Most mainstream bulb labels use the full term, but if you can’t find the word “lumens” on the label look for its abbreviation, lm.

How many lumens do I need?

Contrary to popular belief, you shouldn’t put the brightest bulbs you can find in every area of your home. The rooms in your home will all need different levels of light, depending on how you use them. Use bulbs with a high lumen count in areas where you need a much brighter light, like above your kitchen counters. You need much less light in your bedroom, so consider going with lower lumen count bulbs in warmer colors to keep it a relaxing space where you can get some sleep.

While there are complicated equations out there that you can use to calculate your “exact” lumen requirements, the trouble is that every person and every space is different. You may find that you prefer brighter lights than what’s “necessary” in one place and dimmer lights in another. Your best bet is to try a few different bulbs, or better yet – get a dimmer switch so that you can customize your light levels depending on your needs for the day.

Pro Tip: Lumens can be added across several light sources in a space. It’s not an exact science because it doesn’t take into account distance from the source and the angles of the light, but if you have three 800lm bulbs in a room, it will be lit with roughly 1800lm.

Watts

Watts measure the amount of power consumed by the bulb. One watt isn’t much, it’s equal to 1/746 horsepower. It’s named after James Watt, a Scottish inventor credited for creating a steam engine during the Industrial Revolution. The symbol for watts is “W”.

Most electrical devices are rated in watts, although large appliances that use more power are often measured in kilowatts, which is equal to one thousand watts. (1W = 1000kW)

The wattage of a bulb will tell you only how much power it consumes, not how bright it is. The lower the watt rating on the bulb, the cheaper it will be on your energy bill to light your house.

Before you buy, always check your light fixture for its watt rating. Never put a bulb with a higher watt rating than the fixture can handle. If the bulb tries to pull more power than the fixture can handle, it could start a fire.

 Energy-Efficient Bulbs

Before the days of LED bulbs, it was pretty easy to get a good idea of how bright a bulb was by simply looking at the wattage. The higher the watts, the brighter the bulb. LED lightbulbs can give off the same amount of light as a traditional bulb using far fewer watts. This is what the labels mean when they say the bulbs are “energy efficient” – they need less power to provide equivalent light.

TL;DR Lumens and Watts

Lumens and Watts both describe how a lightbulb works. Lumens measure the amount of light a bulb emits – the higher the lumens the brighter the bulb. Watts measure the amount of power a light bulb uses. Newer light bulbs like LEDs can produce a lot of light (lumens) using very little power (watts), making them more energy-efficient.

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Need help finding the right light bulb? Give the experts at Lit Living a call!

Filed Under: 2022, Energy, Energy Efficient Lighting, General Lighting Tips, Informational, Light Bulbs, Lighting Types

Ceiling Fan Terminology Explained

Ceiling Fan Terminology Explained

by admin · Dec 1, 2023

A Helpful Glossary of Common Ceiling Fan Terms

If you’re shopping for ceiling fans and it’s starting to feel like the descriptions are written in code, don’t worry! We’re here to solve the mystery with a list of basic terms you’ll need to know when looking for the right ceiling fan.

Ceiling Fan Types

Ceiling fans are most often categorized by their motor type, mount type, and/or weather rating. 

Motors

AC and DC Motors

AC motors (alternating current motors) are the most popular ceiling fan motor. They’re typically less expensive than DC motors, which is great for budget buyers. They are relatively energy efficient, are very reliable, and come with around three to four different fan speeds. 

DC motors (direct current motors) are a newer technology and often use a remote instead of a wall switch. DC motors make a quieter, more powerful fan with more speed options and are more efficient than AC motors. 

Dual Motor

Dual motor fans have two adjustable fan heads attached to a central motor. Each head is adjustable to its own speed and angle. 

High-Velocity Motor

A high-velocity fan is a powerful fan. It produces a higher-than-normal amount of airflow, providing you with a stronger breeze. 

Mounts

Downrod/Shank/Extension Rod

The multiple terms for this accessory are purely regional, and all mean the same thing– the rod or bar installed between the ceiling and the fan. Downrods can be used in many rooms but create the most impact in rooms with high ceilings. Not only do they pull the eye upwards and make the room feel bigger, but they also bring the air circulation closer to you.

Standard Mount

This type of mounting system is for level ceilings. Standard mounts usually come with a 3- to 5-inch downrod, so the fan slightly hangs down into the space.

Hugger or Flush Mount

These are perfect for low ceilings and tall people. Huggers are mounted against the ceiling and don’t use a downrod. Depending on the ceiling height, huggers or flush mount fans can help the ceiling seem higher while keeping your air circulated and fresh.

Low-Profile Fan 

For a fan to be considered low-profile, it must hang down less than 12 inches from the ceiling. Most low-profile fans are flush mounts, but some fans with short downrods are small enough to qualify as low-profile as well.

Sloped Mount 

A sloped mount is a mounting system that includes a downrod that allows the ceiling fan to be installed on a vaulted or slanted ceiling. The base is designed to let the downrod and fan hang at an angle when mounted so that the fan will be perpendicular to the floor.

Rating

Wet Rated or Outdoor Rated Fans 

Outdoor or wet rated fans are designed to withstand direct contact with rain and snow. Carefully read the packaging of your outdoor fan because not all fans can handle the same weather exposure. If you live in a particularly wet or stormy area, you’ll need a tougher outdoor fan.

Industrial and Commercial Fans

Industrial fans have powerful motors and curved blades, and they can run continuously, making them ideal for large, open areas like warehouses and gyms. Commercial fans are heavier-duty than standard fans and more aesthetically pleasing than industrial fans. They’re commonly found in schools, businesses, and restaurants.

Ceiling Fan Measurements 

This section covers the most common measurements used to describe a ceiling fan’s function and size.

Airflow (CFM)

Cubic feet per minute (CFM) refers to the amount of air moved by a ceiling fan, using the amount of air moved per cubic foot in one minute as the metric. The higher the airflow a fan uses, the more efficient your home can be as you recycle heated or cooled air. According to Energy Star, 75 CFM is the minimum airflow of an efficient ceiling fan.  

Blade Pitch 

The pitch measures the angle of the blades compared to the ground. Fan blades are slightly angled to push the air around. (If they were parallel to the floor, they wouldn’t do much!) The angle of blade pitches typically ranges between 10 and 25 degrees, but the most efficient is from 10 to 15 degrees. 

Blade Sweep or Span 

A fan’s sweep or span measures the diameter of the circle created by the blades. You’ll need to know the span of your fan to make sure it will fit properly in your room – if it’s too large it could scrape walls or snag curtains. On the other hand, it may be distracting and look out of place if it’s too small.

Motor Speed (RPM)

Revolutions per minute (RPM) refers to the speed of the blades as they rotate, measured by how many times the blades make a complete circle in one minute. High RPM fans move more air than low RPM fans of the same size, making them more efficient. 

Watt Equivalence

Some fans will require more electrical power (watts) than others, so it’s essential to have a good understanding of how much strain your new fan will put on the existing circuit. A good rule of thumb is the longer the fan blades, the more watts it will use. Expect your fan to use 55 to 100 watts.

Weight

Residential ceiling fans typically weigh anywhere from 8 pounds to 50 pounds. Keep in mind that lightweight ceiling fans are designed to hold their weight alone. You should never add anything to a ceiling fan that wasn’t in the original kit without carefully reading the manufacturer’s instructions. Some ceiling fans allow for customizable light kits. In that case, be sure to check the packaging for how much additional weight it can hold.

Number of Speeds

Most ceiling fans will have multiple speed settings so that you can control the amount of airflow and circulation in your space. Most fans will have three speeds (slow, medium, and maximum speed). You’ll also want to see if your fan can reverse direction– this will help pull warm air down from the ceiling during the winter and help to cycle your heated air.

Dimensions

You’ll need to check several measurements to ensure your fan fits correctly in the space. For example, both depth and width can refer to the blade span (or the size of the circle the fan will make). The width can also describe how wide the individual blades are. Finally, as mentioned earlier, the downrod is the pole that connects the fan to the ceiling mount. Together, these three dimensions will tell you how much space the fan will take up.

Pro tip: All fans are designed for specific square footage, meaning that some are designed to push air through large rooms while others are for small rooms. Fans designed for bigger spaces would be disruptive in a smaller room (and vice versa). The packaging of your fan will tell you the intended size of the room, so make sure to check the square footage of the intended space and match it to the appropriate fan. 

Parts and Accessories 

The final section describes potential upgrades and customization options to consider while shopping for your ceiling fan.

Light Kits

Many fans come with a light fixture attached (called an integrated light), but some can be purchased and attached depending on the fan. There are three different light kits that you can use with your fan: uplight kits which sit on top of the fan and point upwards, branched or stemmed kits use globes or shades that point up or down, but the most common light kit is the bowl or shade kit which attaches to the bottom of the fan. Keep in mind that some ceiling fans with an integrated light may not include a bulb– you may need to purchase bulbs separately.

Remote Control

Many fans available today are remote control or smart-home compatible. A remotely controlled fan may seem like a luxury, but it’s also very practical – especially for those with extremely high ceilings! Depending on the model and features, you’ll be able to adjust the lights, fan direction, and fan speed with ease. 

Reversible Blades 

Some fans allow for their blades to spin either clockwise or counterclockwise. This functionality helps to customize airflow according to the season. For example, the blades should turn counterclockwise in the summer to push the air down (a downdraft), providing cool breezes.  The fan blades should rotate clockwise to pull air upwards (an updraft) in the winter, efficiently recycling heated air without cooling the room. You can either toggle the switch on the fan or use a remote to change the direction of the blades. 

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Ready to switch out your builder-grade fan or install a new one in the place of an existing light fixture? Now that you have a reference to all of the features and parts of a ceiling fan, you can shop confidently.

If you’d like additional information, a professional opinion, or installation assistance, contact the experts at Lit Living, and we’ll make sure you get exactly what you are looking for! 

Filed Under: 2022, Buying Guides, Ceiling Fans, Informational

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